The ultimate brownie, round 1
I’m attempting to come up with the perfect brownie formula—and by perfect, I mean my perfect brownie. I want a go-to in the same league as the Jacques Torres Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe. I’ve used brownie recipes from different sources, including Cooks Illustrated, Cooks Illustrated Light, Saveur, AB, Chow.com, Hershey’s and others. I decided to cobble together my own recipe based on principles I’ve seen used elsewhere. I had a bad experience making the much-hyped CI chewy brownie. Maybe I did something wrong, but those things were not very tasty. Yes, they were chewy, but I thought too much so. And they weren’t chocolatey enough. The CI staff wanted to match the chewiness of brownies from a box mix, but with none of the chemically aftertaste.
I want it all: the deep, complex flavor of a classically decadent brownie, like AB’s cocoa brownies, a but a little chewiness instead of fudginess. Also, I’d love it if the brownie wasn’t a sugary fat bomb. I know it’s possible to make a delicious, low fat, chocolately brownie—the Cooks Illustrated “Light Brownies” are absolutely divine. I don’t want the brownie to be cloyingly sweet, too buttery, crumbly, cake-like, too moist or too dry.
I think I have a few more renditions to go.
These brownies were a tad too sugary, not chocolatey enough, and a teensy bit underdone. Changes for next time:
1) I’ll use Ghirardelli bittersweet chips instead of those nasty Toll House morsels I had on hand. Did you know Nestle Toll House morsels came in last place in a dark chocolate morsel blind taste test? They have more sugar than nearly any other dark chocolate morsel on the market, plus they are so darned waxy, and they taste cheap and only faintly of chocolate. Makes sense: they are 57% sugar and only 30% cacao! I knew it was a risk to use Toll House given their dead-last ranking, but I could make up for it by adding a tablespoon of Droste dutch-process cocoa to the mix…right? Nope. I thought the tablespoon of cocoa would help add chocolatey authenticity, but it didn’t do enough. Ghirardelli’s’60% cacao chips came in first place in that tasting – 40% sugar, 60% cacao.
2) I’ll use a vegetable oil and butter combo, but not the 71% oil to 29% butter ratio CI used for their chewy brownie recipe. My brownies don’t need to be as chewy as theirs were.
3) I want to bloom the cocoa and add 1 teaspoon of espresso powder with a little hot water, just like CI does for their absolutely delicious light brownie recipe. In adding hot water, I think I’ll use a little less fat. Problem with the CI light brownies recipe is the painstakingly detailed and fussy directions. Mix these two ingredients in one bowl, then these two in a different bowl, whisk combo 1 with combo 2 in combo 2’s bowl, then slowly add combo 3 and combo 4 into a different bowl and slowly add stuff 1 and 2 into bowl 4. It’s a brownie, let’s keep things in perspective! (Says me…ha.)
4) Use a little less sugar. These were awfully sweet. So sweet that they didn’t taste chocolately enough. I’ll drop the sugar by around 2 tablespoons and see if that helps.
5) Check brownies with toothpick for doneness. I went by the appearance of the edges for these brownies, but I should have left them in 3-4 min longer. I don’t like slightly underdone baked goods. Never have. Soft and chewy is one thing, underdone is another. There is a subtle but distinct difference. I either like raw dough or fully cooked—nowhere in between. I believe I underbaked these brownies by about 3-4 minutes.
Brownie recipe, round 1
1 stick unsalted butter, plus more for greasing
4 oz. semi-sweet chocolate morsels
2 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 handful walnut pieces
1. Heat oven to 350° and grease 8×8″ baking pan with butter and coat in powdered sugar.
2. As soon as butter is done melting in medium bowl, add chocolate to it, stirring, until melted and smooth, a couple minutes. Set aside.
3. Whisk together eggs in a large bowl. Add sugar, brown sugar, vanilla, and salt; whisk to combine. Stir in chocolate mixture; fold in flour. Pour batter into prepared pan; spread evenly. Sprinkle walnuts evenly over top. Bake until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, 30–35 minutes. Let cool on a rack. Cut and serve.
Brownie recipe, round 2, to be tested in the next week:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon hot water
½ teaspoon espresso powder
4 oz. bittersweet chocolate
2 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup flour
handful of walnuts
1. Heat oven to 350° and grease 8×8″ baking pan with butter and coat in powdered sugar.
2. Whisk espresso powder, cocoa and hot water in medium bowl. Whisk in the sugars, then whisk in melted butter and chocolate combination. Next, slowly add slightly beaten eggs and vanilla . Fold in flour.
3. Pour batter into prepared pan; spread evenly. Sprinkle walnuts evenly over top. Bake until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, 33–35 minutes. Let cool on a rack. Cut and serve.